First you must set the anchor bolts and then pour. To a piece of plywood and cut. Of the anchor bolt (and nut) above the template with duct tape to.

I would like to attach a projector arm to my drywall, but the mounting plate of the arm is a bit wider than a wall stud. Thus, I would like to create an intermediate plywood mounting plate that I can screw into the wall at a stud, and then mount the projector arm to that intermediate plate. I am looking for advice about what hardware to use for each step of the process: what kind of screws or bolts should I use to attach the plywood plate to my wall?

How long should they be? Should I pre-drill holes? And then how should I screw the actual projector arm mounting plate into that plywood plate? Should I pre-drill holes? Should I use the drywall anchors that came with the projector mounting kit? The best situation here would be to make the plywood plate large enough so that it spans across at least two studs.

This will determine the horizontal span of the plywood. The vertical span should be not less than about 0.75 times the horizontal span. The plywood material needs to be hefty enough to be able to take the fasteners needed for the arm assembly. I would use a minimum thickness of 3/4' for the plywood and use a type that has more layers than less. Select something that is going to be solid without internal gaps that some cheap stuff has.

Here is a picture of what could be considered a decent grade of plywood. You would anchor the plywood to the studs in at least six places. That would be three per stud.

Assuming that the studs are wood you would use wood screws for this attachment. Flat head wood screws of the #10 or #12 size are what is called for here. The screws should be long enough so that they penetrate into the stud material itself two inches. Do not forget to add the thickness of the wall covering (drywall) to the length of the screws. You do want to pre-drill a clearance hole through the plywood for the body size of the wood screws. Also countersink the head side of the hole just enough so that the heads will draw down to just below the surface of the plywood so that you can later fill over the heads and paint the surface to look nice. There should also be pilot drill sized holes sunk into the studs where the screws will be installed.

The size is determined by the minor diameter of the screw at the base of its threads. For mounting the arm bracket I would suggest that you not try to screw into the plywood plate. Instead I would suggest that you pre-install fasteners for the bracket from the back side of the plywood before mounting it to the wall. There are two types of fastener applicable here. One is to use a T-Nut that pounds into a clearance hole from the back side. Sharp tines on the T-Nut secure it to the plywood and keep it from turning. The other approach would be to use carriage bolts.

These have a shallow round head and a square section under the head that is pounded into the hole to keep the bolt from turning when applying nuts and washers from the other end. I would recommend 5/16' sized T-Nut or carriage bolt. Here are images of a T-Nut and a carriage bolt. Royal Revolt Cheats Hack For Android IPhone.

The bracket fasterners need to be secured to the plywood before the plywood is mounted to the wall. T-Nuts would give a better finished look as you would be using short 5/16' bolts and flat washers to attach the bracket to the plywood plate. On the otherhand the bracket attachment to the carriage bolts would be done with nuts and flat washers. The short bolts that are used with T-Nuts would look similar to the following picture.

The length of the threaded portion of the bolt would be about the thickness of the plywood so that it does not bottom out and dig into the wall surface under the plywood. For both the fastener applications that I suggested you want to make sure to use a sturdy flat washer that will span across the holes on the bracket.

Simpson Strong-Tie now offers anchor bolt stabilizers that may be used with all anchor template models. The bolt stabilizer enables the steel Strong-Wall anchorage to be installed without being tied to the footing rebar cage by helping to eliminate movement of the anchor bolts during concrete placement.

Two bolt stabilizers are used for each SSW anchor assembly; one at the embedded plate washer and the other above the template. Half-inch-diameter dowels (not supplied) are then driven down through the bolt stabilizers and into the ground to ensure plumb installation of the anchors and prevent movement during concrete placement. Immediately following concrete placement, the dowels are removed and reused in other locations. • Product Information Tables Steel Strong-Wall Model Width (in.) Anchor Bolt Stabilizer Model Steel Strong-Wall Template Model Reversible Panel Form Brick Ledge Extended Leg SSW12 12 SSWBS12 SSWT12 SSWTPF12 SSWTBL12 SSWTEL12 SSW15 15 SSWBS15 SSWT15 SSWTPF15 SSWTBL15 SSWTEL15 SSW18 18 SSWBS18 SSWT18 SSWTPF18 SSWTBL18 SSWTEL18 SSW21 21 SSWBS21 SSWT21 SSWTPF21 SSWTBL21 SSWTEL21 SSW24 24 SSWBS24 SSWT24 SSWTPF24 SSWTBL24 SSWTEL24 • The height of the garage curb above the garage slab is critical for rough header opening at garage return walls.

• Templates are recommended and are required in some jurisdictions. • Foundation design by Designer. • Templates are the same for 4' or 6' thick walls.

Who we are Since its founding in 1944, Anchor has been a pioneer in the Indian plywood industry. It was the first Indian company to manufacture marine plywood in 1951 and quickly became one of India's preeminent plywood companies, with 11 factories and over 4000 employees spread across India. During its long and glorious history, Anchor has sold very large quantities of plywood in every part of India and exported all over the world. Today Anchor continues its relentless quest to provide customers with the finest quality products.

This is the driving force behind Anchor - the insatiable urge to serve every segment of the wood panel market, giving every application the Anchor edge in quality at the right price.